Nestled in the serene heart of Swiss watchmaking, the Vallée de Joux stands as a testament to timeless luxury and artisanal mastery. At the helm of this illustrious tradition is Catherine Rénier, the esteemed CEO of Jaeger-LeCoultre, a brand synonymous with elegance and precision. Under Rénier's visionary leadership, the Maison continues to weave the narrative of Swiss luxury with every meticulously crafted timepiece.

In an exclusive conversation with Swiss Luxury Magazine, Catherine Rénier unveils the depth of passion and commitment that drives the iconic brand. She shares her personal journey within the industry, elucidating on how the Vallée de Joux's rich history and natural beauty serve as a constant source of inspiration for Jaeger-LeCoultre's creations. With a discerning eye for detail and a heartfelt dedication to the craft, Rénier reflects on the values that define Swiss luxury through her experiences and aspirations for the brand's future. Join us as we explore the very essence of horological artistry with one of the industry's most influential figures.

Jaeger-LeCoultre has engaged in a series of high-profile collaborations over the last year. Among these various alliances, is there one that stands out as especially transformative or crucial for the brand's direction and vision?

Catherine Rénier: We engage in a few select collaborations each year, each unique and reflective of the individual artist's flair. Our early work with French pastry chef Nina Métayer, for example, blended Art Deco with local flavors, and she's set to feature again in our New York exhibition this November. Our venture into digital art with Yiyun Kang was a venture into the unknown, challenging us to interpret gold in a digital medium, blurring the lines between physical and virtual creativity.

Artists visiting our site are inspired by various aspects of our setting—Yiyun Kang was particularly taken with the surrounding palm trees. We choose collaborators who share our values and contribute to our brand's narrative, like Alex Trochu, whose Art Deco-inspired alphabet left a lasting impression, exemplifying the blend of tradition and individuality we cherish.

What sets Jaeger-LeCoultre apart from the luxury watch brands in the current market?

Catherine Rénier: Our brand's ethos is characterized by a dynamic fusion of creativity and innovation, continuously evolving without distancing from our historical achievements. We honor our impressive legacy—encompassing over 1,200 created calibers—by allowing it to inform and inspire our forward trajectory in haute horlogerie. Each timepiece we craft is not only a testament to our rich history but also a beacon of pioneering design and technology.

Consider the Reverso: an emblematic model that embodies our commitment to heritage and innovation. This year, we have introduced a new chronograph iteration, the first since its inception in 1996. This model represents a significant departure from the past, featuring an advanced movement, innovative technical enhancements, and a refreshed aesthetic, including an invigorated dial color scheme. This is a clear demonstration of our philosophy: to reinterpret our historical designs with contemporary relevance and groundbreaking ingenuity.

Our approach is to maintain a synergistic relationship between tradition and modernity. While some maisons may find themselves anchored too firmly in the past or, conversely, veering towards the ephemeral in pursuit of relentless innovation, our signature lies in the harmonious integration of our lineage with state-of-the-art advancements. This delicate equilibrium ensures that our collections are both reflective of our storied past and attuned to the present, securing our position as a vanguard of the watchmaking industry.

Could you elucidate how Jaeger-LeCoultre's storied heritage has shaped the design philosophy and spurred the innovative features of your latest collection?

Catherine Rénier: Indeed, our commitment to our heritage is paramount, as evidenced by an exciting initiative that underscores my earlier point. Jaeger-LeCoultre has a profound legacy with 1,260 calibers to our name, and each year, we contribute further to this impressive repertoire. As part of our 'The Collectibles' project, we've carefully curated 17 signature calibers crafted between 1920 and 1970. These calibers aren't just mechanisms; they are the keystones of Jaeger-LeCoultre's journey of innovation and broader horological history. They mark the advent of diving watches, exemplified by the Memovox, and watches that served practical purposes beyond telling time, such as waking one up.

Through these calibers, we narrate the evolution of watchmaking across decades and Jaeger-LeCoultre's influential role therein. By acquiring and restoring these historical pieces at our manufacture—where they were originally conceived—we honor our past. Our restoration studio is unique because it operates where these movements were first made, sometimes even utilizing original components for refurbishment.

Upon restoration, these watches are made available for purchase in extremely limited quantities. This initiative is not only a celebration of our heritage but also a means to perpetuate the history of watchmaking, showcasing Jaeger-LeCoultre as a pivotal figure. Our heritage not only informs our current innovations but is also actively revered, with some pieces being so exceptional that they require little more than a careful restoration to remind us of their enduring brilliance.

Can you share insights into any innovative materials or techniques that might be featured in future timepieces?

Catherine Rénier: Our commitment to innovation is a cornerstone of our brand's identity, as evidenced by the extensive portfolio of approximately 420 patents, with an annual addition of five to ten patents. Our endeavors in movement innovation are ceaseless, driven by a dedicated in-house Research and development team. This team operates from a state-of-the-art laboratory and prototyping studio, ensuring that we remain at the forefront of horological advances. Our explorations range from new sound systems for striking watches to tools that enhance precision, and continuous enhancements of our calibers, particularly in terms of performance and power reserve.

When it comes to materials, our approach is guided by functionality and narrative coherence rather than trendsetting. The selection of materials undergoes rigorous testing within our laboratory to ensure that they not only contribute to the aesthetic of the watch but also serve to augment its acoustic properties, as in the case of minute repeaters, or to align with the timepiece's conceptual narrative.

Fashion, while considered, is not the primary driver in our material selection. That said, we are expanding our repertoire of materials for watch straps, introducing contemporary and versatile options. This includes the integration of rubber and calf leather, as well as the recent addition of modern fabric straps, adding a touch of sophistication and adaptability to the design. Our focus remains steadfast on materials that elevate the inherent qualities of our watches, affirming our legacy as a purveyor of fine watchmaking.

How does Jaeger-LeCoultre view the role of artificial intelligence in its watch design and engineering process?

Catherine Rénier: Jaeger-LeCoultre is attuned to the evolving landscape of horology and technology. While our dedicated in-house team—comprising watch designers, movement engineers, and content creators—primarily draws upon our rich heritage to shape the future, we do not currently integrate artificial intelligence into our innovation process. Our watch designers are traditionalists, crafting designs with a hands-on approach fueled by imagination. In contrast, our engineers utilize computational methods to enhance precision and functionality.

Artificial intelligence, while not presently a cornerstone of our methodology, may be considered a supplementary tool in the future, potentially serving as a catalyst for initial concepts. The intricacy of our watches goes beyond aesthetics; it encompasses complex engineering that often involves extensive 3D modeling to visualize the completed movement, a process that demands considerable computational resources and time.

Looking ahead, AI could offer assistance in this intricate dance of creativity and complexity. However, the depth of expertise and collaborative synergy required in crafting our timepieces will undoubtedly continue to rely on the irreplaceable skills and knowledge of our teams. In our atelier, the creation of a watch is a symphony performed by designers, engineers, and watchmakers, each contributing their expertise to bring a vision to life.

What has sustained the Reverso’s allure in a volatile market?

Catherine Rénier: The Reverso's enduring appeal lies in its iconic Art Deco design, a testament to its 1931 origins. Its timeless aesthetics, characterized by geometric lines and a contoured case devoid of sharp angles, alongside a minimalist dial, have remained largely unaltered, adhering to the golden ratio. The Reverso has always evolved within the framework of its classic design, incorporating color variations and dual-face complications that add functional depth while honoring its style heritage.

Originally a robust sports watch for polo players, it quickly transcended its initial purpose, gaining popularity for its elegance and fashion-forward design in the 1930s. Despite the quartz crisis, the Reverso experienced a resurgence in the 1980s, prompted by renewed interest and a redesign that enhanced its durability. The 1990s saw the introduction of significant innovations such as the dual-face concept, integrating advanced complications while preserving its signature look.

Today, the Reverso remains a symbol of the brand's ability to adapt and innovate without compromising its distinct identity, contributing to its unwavering relevance and prestige in the luxury watch market.

Which Reverso model resonates with you, and why?

Catherine Rénier: My affinity lies with the burgundy Reverso model we unveiled in 2018, which coincided with my entry into the watch industry. This particular piece is dear to me for several reasons. Firstly, its launch was a seminal moment in my career, marking the beginning of my journey in this illustrious field. I remember presenting it with genuine passion, its elegance capturing my heart.

Secondly, it holds sentimental value as I have personalized it with the Art Deco-inspired Alex Trochu alphabet, which for me, encapsulates a narrative rich in craftsmanship and heritage. This personalization elevates the timepiece beyond mere accessorizing to a repository of cherished memories.

Lastly, the idea of legacy is intrinsic to my favorite Reverso. Similar to the traditions of our clientele, I have acquired additional pieces in blue and green, earmarked for my children. It is more than a watch; it is a symbol of family heritage, intended to be passed down and cherished across generations.

While I've adorned more ornate and valuable pieces, it is this burgundy Reverso that truly possesses my heart, for it is intertwined with personal milestones and future legacies.

Can you share any exclusive details on future directions or special editions for the Reverso line?

Catherine Rénier: Certainly. We have exciting developments on the horizon for the Reverso, particularly with our exhibition, "Reverso Stories," set to take place in New York. This three-week event, commencing on November 1st, will be hosted in a spacious venue of over 500 square meters near the iconic Flatiron Building. It's an ambitious setup, where we will showcase several hundred Reverso watches.

During this exhibition, we'll unveil some exquisite pieces featuring our successful enamel artwork on the reverse side of the Reverso watches. Furthermore, we're continuing to expand our collection with specially engraved and lacquered Reverso timepieces, which will include Chinese zodiac signs. The upcoming year of the dragon will be commemorated with a limited series of these models, adding a bespoke touch to our offerings. These pieces are exceptionally crafted, with each edition limited to just a handful, emphasizing their uniqueness and the artisanal skills invested in their creation.

What are the key factors in choosing brand ambassadors for Jaeger-LeCoultre?

Catherine Rénier: Selecting brand ambassadors for Jaeger-LeCoultre is a process that's deeply anchored in authenticity and alignment with our brand values. Our current ambassadors, including the likes of Lenny Kravitz, reflect a strong personal style and a transgenerational appeal. Lenny's respected artistry and grounded personality, combined with his genuine passion for horology, make him an ideal representative of our identity.

Similarly, Anya Taylor-Joy has a personal connection with the Reverso through her family's involvement in polo, tying her to the spirit of the watch. Our ambassadors often become part of our family through mutual connections and shared experiences, indicative of the warm and collaborative nature of our team. We value loyalty and nurturing long-term relationships, which is why our ambassadors, like Nicholas Hoult, feel confident referring peers to us, knowing they'll appreciate the unique and respectful partnership we offer. This approach has fostered a supportive network that naturally extends our family of ambassadors.

How is Jaeger-LeCoultre working towards sustainability in luxury watchmaking?

Catherine Rénier: Sustainability is a cornerstone of Jaeger-LeCoultre's philosophy, and we have been proactive in this arena for years. We've successfully cut our manufacturing carbon emissions by over 40%, a testament to our commitment to the environment. Our current focus is on transitioning to renewable energy sources for heating our manufacturing facilities and ensuring the purification of the water we utilize.

Beyond our immediate operations, we've undertaken product lifecycle analyses on our timepieces to map out their carbon footprint comprehensively. This extends to working closely with our suppliers to understand and mitigate the third scope of our emissions, setting concrete targets for carbon reduction.

We believe in measuring our carbon emissions accurately across the entire value chain, setting reduction goals, and consistently striving to meet them year after year. This effort is continuous and touches every aspect of our operations, from product longevity—our watches are inherently sustainable due to their long lifespans—to the sourcing of materials. While we have made significant strides in sustainability, we view this as an ongoing journey, always seeking further improvements.

What is your personal interpretation of Swiss luxury?

Catherine Rénier: To me, Swiss luxury is quintessentially embodied by the Vallée de Joux. It's more than a location; it's the cradle of exceptional watchmaking that invites discovery and admiration. The Vallée represents the culmination of passion, craftsmanship, and centuries-old traditions, symbolizing how a community can unite to hone and preserve invaluable skills.

This place narrates a tale of endurance and innovation, where the watchmaking industry has not only survived but thrived for over two centuries. Today, the entire ecosystem of the Vallée de Joux is sustained by this industry, a testament to its global impact.

Moreover, the Vallée is breathtakingly beautiful and remarkably preserved, with a distinctive identity that resonates with the essence of true luxury. For me, luxury is deeply rooted in craftsmanship and the tangible output of skilled artisans. The Vallée de Joux, with its rich heritage and vibrant community, epitomizes this, making it an integral part of the Swiss luxury narrative. It's the harmonious blend of people, skills, and environment that makes it so special and why I feel a profound connection to it.

Useful links

Jaeger-LeCoultre: Official Website & Instagram

Address: Bahnhofstrasse 32 - 8001 Zürich

EXCLUSIVE Interview with the CEO of Jaeger-LeCoultre, Catherine Rénier